Home Forums General Karting Discussion How to fix stripped beadlock?

This topic contains 7 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Charles Kaneb 3 years, 10 months ago.

  • Author
  • #30991

    Rod Hawkins

    Yesterday I was slowly losing air and after checking my beadlocks, realized that it was stripped. Seems like the threads grab and almost seal, but just not enough. Of course the wheels are magnesium (freeline) and the threads are stripped on wheel side, not the actual beadlock.

    What are my options?

    1. Try a new beadlock hoping the threads are cut just a tiny bit deeper?

    2. Teflon tape the threads?

    3. Take beadlocks out and seal on inside using a cycling tubeless wheel tape (glorified duct tape) or duct tape? (Bikes handle much higher tire pressure, do 10 lbs on a kart wheel should be easy). Btw, my series doesn’t require beadlocks.

    4. Take beadlocks out and seal it using some of that super strong jb weld type stuff?

    5. Tape it with a larger thread (but what nut would I used to replace the stock beadlock that is fairly light wt? I do have several titanium nuts that are light for my mountain bike kicking around that might just work, any other better ideas?)

    Thanks in advance

  • #30995

    Ted Hamilton

    I’d either seal the hole or re-tap next larger size… A socket head cap screw with a rubber o-ring should work, if the proper length?

    2014 Praga Dragon / IAME KA-100

  • #30996

    Rod Hawkins

    After a lot of searching, looks like I found another option. 5mm to 6mm repair kit. Anyone have any experience with this kit?


    • #31008

      Rod Hawkins

      Wow. Just tried to check out getting that beadlock repair kit. $15 seemed like a reasonable price for 3 beadlocks and a tool to rethread. But $18 shipping from PA to Ca? Holy crap, looks like I will do my own. What a joke.

  • #31009

    Glenn L Riggs

    you could j b weld the hole and retap with the 5 mm tap to reuse existing locks, don`t need to fill the holes just cover the threads to get the bite of the tap good luck

  • #31025

    Walt Gifford

    You need to use bead loc screws, regular bolt will squeeze the Oring out.

    Get it welded if you have the skills to re-drill it and surface the Oring seat.


    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

  • #31028

    Jim Silverheels

    Rod, do it right, weld it, drill, and re tap it.

  • #31425

    Charles Kaneb

    Drill the hole to 5.0 mm (0.197″), then tap using an M6x1.0 tap and buy 6×1.0 beadlock screws.

    Jim, I’m not too sure about welding a highly-stressed magnesium casting that costs less than $100.


You must be logged in to reply to this topic.