Home Forums 2-Cycle Racing Horstman Steel Nytro Clutch 3 Disc 6 spring VS L & T 3 Disc 4 Spring Clutc

This topic contains 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  patrick hubbell 2 years, 9 months ago.

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  • #50463

    Kuwayne Green

    I’m a newby to the kart world. I bought a yamaha kt100 a couple weeks ago with a tun load of spares. It had the Nytro clutch on it but could not get it to grab. I checked and found that the air gap was too wide. So i took it off and mounted a L & T 3 disc 4 spring and it works fine. But wanted to know the difference between the 2. Also what are the tools needed to pull the nytro apart.

  • #54968

    patrick hubbell

    Kuwayne, welcome to the world of karting.

    Both clutches have their good points and bad.  I do not have much experience with the Steel Nitro. I do have a lot of experience with the L&T though.  The L&T is an engineering marvel, simple and it works but does require maintenance. the L&T is best at .028 air gap and is checked with a feeler gauge. The main difference is the Steel Nitro’s  method of engaging the clutch is to push the discs together.  It is better, more consistent to pull the discs together. When the L&T first hit the market it was  a 1/2 second faster than any other clutch. If you choose to run the L&T, replace the lever arm pins aka ‘dog bones’ every 3 to 4 race days, use only L&T clutch oil. The adjustment of the stall speed is opposite that of a Steel Nitro. Check with L&T for this procedure.  In the day, we use to refer to the Steel Nitro, as the ‘Steel Grenade’ because they would blow up all the time. If any part inside of a steel nitro failed it would destroy the clutch, whereas the L&T would keep on going.  I had lever straps break, dog bones break and a disc delaminate. Never affected any of the other components.   Maybe  I just got lucky.

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