March 6, 2014 at 12:54 pm #23359
For a fat old man like me, this is great! Pretty sure I’m going to get one of these! I road race a Stock Honda and I think this would be a great help to me.March 6, 2014 at 6:27 pm #23375
I second that. This has been discussed before, and I’m glad someone (Hegar) took the initiative to make it happen.
It also makes the CR125 even more appealing next to all of these TaG-style KZ motors that have recently been released.March 6, 2014 at 7:01 pm #23380
I think this will attract more Stock Honda pilots in Road Racing. Would be so cool to sit on the grid and push a button!!March 7, 2014 at 12:23 pm #23441
Really cool idea. My only concern being a old fat guy as well is I am not sure I have the clearance between my seat and engine to fit the starter. Size large seat only leaves about a 1/4″ clearance.
Sure would be nice though. The Hegar Bros. are innovators.March 7, 2014 at 10:21 pm #23451
Jim I have the same problem. I looked at an offset motor mount the other day that should help. And moving the seat a little should work.March 14, 2014 at 1:47 am #23795
Mildly amusing how perception changes over time. Back when I posted about the TM K9ES TaG-ICC in ’06, every other post was about how the battery+starter was just another layer o f complexity, more weight, blah, blah, & blah…
I went ahead & bought a K9ES anyway & couldn’t be happier (Well, EFI would be a step up). Now it comes to SM & it’s awesome.
If it’s comparable to the TM K9ES, it will work quite well.March 14, 2014 at 4:50 am #23799
Those individuals claiming a push-button start unecessary have obviously never been to the track solo before.
In fact, I’m certain I’ve mentioned somewhere in the old forum that such a device would be a godsend to stock moto. I’ll admit, the TaG style KZs like the TM K9ES, IAME X30, Sonik Sport, and Vortex Rok, definitely had one plus over the Moto being able to start it with a push of the button.
I know what Ray is talking about when they said this would be perfect for road racers. Having witnessed the task of a group of shifters lined up on the pit wall, trying to get push-started in a very small amount of space, and then trying to roll back into position, sometimes within a minute before the green waves.March 14, 2014 at 10:44 am #23826
There are many conservative fuddy-duddies on this forum that are more than willing to shoot down new ideas, until someone who has gained their respect changes their mind. Little thinking for themselves…March 17, 2014 at 12:09 pm #23989
What an awesome product! I assume you have to charge the battery separately. I wonder how many starts it’s good for before needing to be recharged. The weight is not an issue for me as I have to add lead to my kart to meet the minimum anyway. This sure would make life easier! $650 is up there though!!! I’d LOVE to have it but I have gotten so good at starting my stock Honda that I don’t think I could justify $650.00. MAYBE $400.00. Most guys I know just spin the rear tires with their hands while the kart is on the stand and then put it on the ground. If you stall you are SOL! The electric start could save the entire day/session for us road racers. Wonder if this will be legal??????March 20, 2014 at 9:49 am #24186
I have an electric kart stand. Makes the procedure much easier. I fold up some duct tape and put it under the throttle to make it idle. Start the motor with a strap on the tire, then lower the kart to the ground. Move the stand out of the way and get in. All the time hoping the motor doesn’t quit. The duct tape blows away once on the track. Note I am way too old to run along side the kart and jump in!! Just had knee replacement anyway!March 20, 2014 at 8:06 pm #24233
Even though I have no troubles starting myself, I still got mine…..shipped to Australia.
Anyone notice the 10% special offer from Sharkshifter at the moment? Time to grab one now if your considering.
How awesome is the finish, quality and completeness of the kit, yet very light indeed. This really is a game changer for the class, nothing else required, even a freaking battery charger provided. Totally impressive!March 21, 2014 at 9:37 pm #24297
Ray, can you tell me about the offset motor mount? thxMarch 21, 2014 at 9:40 pm #24298
Ray, can you tell me about the offset motor mount? I’ve got the starter on order and while I don’t know how far it will protrude into the seat area, I’m thinking about just grinding off the curved edge of the seat. If the motor is moved outward, how will the alignment with the rear sprocket be achieved? thxMarch 21, 2014 at 9:45 pm #24299
Move the axle gear… no problem
Grind the seat… no problem
94yMarch 22, 2014 at 5:01 am #24306
It’s a great idea I wish it was around when I started with shifters. I’m solo sometimes or with my youngest son who’s to small to push start and I’m to old to do the push and jump in thing. First I set the engine to idle and put a kill switch on the wheel. I use an electric lift and I make an aluminum plug with a 1/2″ center bolt that fits into the axle on the right side. I put it in 6th gear and spin the axle with a Coleman starter. Then put it in neutral and lower to the ground.
BrianMarch 22, 2014 at 6:20 am #24308
Chris ReinhardtParticipantMarch 22, 2014 at 3:38 pm #24330
I’ve never had the need for push button start on my Stock Honda but now that I got one for trial, I’m sold. So easy!!!!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zE8XmIchHnEMarch 22, 2014 at 6:07 pm #24332
I was looking at the Motor mount at Acceleration Karting. It has a bushing that looks like can go on either side of the motor. Not sure on the exact size but looks to be about 3/8 of an inch? Saw one on a Kart, it put the axle sprocket very close to the 3rd bearing bolts. Was thinking I may have to grind those bolt heads a little.
Chris I’m 67 and I need this!March 22, 2014 at 6:56 pm #24335
Pretty small picture. The Swedetech mount.March 23, 2014 at 6:40 pm #24360
I believe the Sharkshifter mount has more adjustment than any other (3 spacers) and has all features required to be the best mount around.
This is what I use and it’s awesome.
I have the engine with starter mounted on kart with Large seat, heaps and heaps of clearance. Would have no problems with XL seat.
http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60&products_id=1318March 23, 2014 at 7:54 pm #24364
Sam, what kind of chassis do you have? And how close to the axle 3rd bearing is the sprocket and chain? ThanksMarch 23, 2014 at 8:16 pm #24365
Currently mounted on a Regetti Rodolphi chassis (Gold Kart – Viper) and also have mounted on a BRM GPM-66 chassis. Both are current CIK reg European chassis.
This mount allows the sprocket/chain to align very close the the 3rd bearing bolt heads just without the chain touching….ever….under racing loads.
The gearbox sump plug is as close as it can be to the main chassis tube just before it touches about 1/2 half way above the tube’s radius. You can’t mount any further/lower than this, that’s why I recommend this mount based on what I know and see for myself….it is deadly accurate in it’s setup.
I have used this mount on about 25x chassis thus far, never an issue.April 3, 2014 at 6:52 pm #25015
Thought I’d post my observations after installing on a CRG Road Rebel. I used the Sharkshifter mount which has room for 3 spacers between case and mount. To make clearance between the starter cover and my large Tillett seat I wanted to move the engine as far outboard possible. However, I could only fit one spacer on the inboard side, and 2 on the outboard side in order to maintain clearance between the chain and third bearing mount bolt heads. I looked into low profile bolts there but that doesn’t save enough space to move one more spacer over. I suppose to maximize clearance you could make your own spacers but either way, the front of the seat must move to avoid the starter cover. Makes me wonder if the cover could have been made a bit shorter since every little bit counts to make it fit. If only my ass was narrower!
That said, everything in the kit is of excellent quality and it works like a champ. The battery that comes with it is a Li Ion deal thats incredibly light. Its a very slick setup.
Yes, its not necessary, but its damn nice to have. I’ll have to scale again to see what this has done to my weight distribution but since the seat movement is largely in the front hopefully its not too bad.
JeffApril 24, 2014 at 10:04 am #26227
Does anyone have any pictures of this installed – or weight distribution info with the motor moved over? I’d love to have this for autocross (where there’s a lot of engine start/stops, and not always room for a push start) – but right now I’ve got less than zero clearance between the engine and seat (the corner of my seat is just slightly cutaway to clear the front lip of the flywheel housing), so I know making room will be something non-trival for me.
Also – any chance of someone posting up the dimensions of that plastic cover? In particular I’d be looking for the thickness of the two “steps” in the cover so I can make a wood block the right size to test fittment before buying the kit.April 26, 2014 at 4:59 pm #26358
If you look at the pictures of the cover that goes over the case opening there are two bosses there. One sticks out 1″ from the flange, and the longer one is 1-1/4″. The key to making this fit is to use the adjustable offset engine mount (sharkshifter one is great) and move outboard until you run out of sprocket/chain clearance, and move the motor back so that the hump on the starter nose clears your seat. Another potential help would be if you happen to run an offset engine sprocket which will let you move it outboard a hair more. You can also use low profile head bolts on your third bearing mount.
With the weight I have to add for KM, I have recovered my L/R balance.
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