January 5, 2014 at 7:49 pm #19012
What cordless impact guns are you guys using on rear wheel nuts and to what tq should they be tightened to? We’ve always done them with hand tools and have never actually measured the tightening torque. To make things go much faster in the pits this season I got a Milwaukee M12 1/4″ hex impact gun. I did a few ‘dry runs’ with it already loosening and tightening rear wheel nuts and am measured with a torque wrench that its tightening to about 350 in lbs. Milwaukee Tools also has a version of the M12 with a 3/8″ driver that has more torque potential and am wondering if I should exchange for the upgrade.
thanks!January 5, 2014 at 10:41 pm #19022
I was just about to post the same question, cool, you beat me to it
I wondered the same thing, and last week I had the Mac tools guy all excited to sell me a cordless impact 3/8 gun
So I took the first choice he had and stepped out of the truck to try it on 3 of my go karts ( front and rear tires) Now all the wheel nuts were done by me, by hand from the previous race we went to
Anyhow, to my surprise the gun could not undo the nuts, on any of the three karts, front or rear tires
So I came back into the Tool truck to pick up the 2nd option, which was a much more expensive, and more heavy duty, and of course could not take the nuts off!!!!!!
So I told the guy I can’t buy any of these guns, as they won’t do me any good at the pitts
Both impact guns I tried had fully charged batteries, and brand new, I am a regular customer from some of these Snap on, and Mac Tool truck, and I was fortunate to test them before purchasing, so I’m glad I did.
Can some body chime in here and let us know what kind of battery powered impact gun is the one to go with?
Thanks in advance, and thank you John for posting thisJanuary 6, 2014 at 12:05 pm #19077
I think it was the 2002 SKUSA SuperNats…they kept our tires in parkferme. Whoa…that proved to be a nightmare without an impact driver.
Got the Milwaukee 1/2″ cordless impact driver with a 3/8″ adapter when I got home from SuperNats; been using it since.
However, I use a ratchet wrench to tighten/loosen the wheel nuts. I do not trust an impact driver to get the wheel nuts totally tight. Haven’t lost a wheel, yet.
The impact driver is a time saver for me.January 6, 2014 at 12:26 pm #19080
No problem Freddy, I’m trying to figure this out before it gets too close to the race season.
I forgot to mention that the 2 sets of rear wheels I removed had been on the those karts since our last race in October. All together, 11 of the 12 nuts came off after only a few seconds of having the impact on them (not too bad of removal time), but that impact gun couldn’t break loose last one so I had to use my normal breaker bar to remove it.
Our team ran 3 karts in 1 class last year, and tire changing by hand was killing our efficiency and ability to make other changes between heats. Now this year we are going ot have a 4th kart running in the team so we need an impact that can break wheel nuts loose quickly and then drive them back on. Final torquing of the wheel lugs will be done with a torque wrench- but that’s a tq value we’re still looking for. Bill, to what tq are you tightening them to?January 7, 2014 at 5:37 am #19114
My Sodi users manual says 25Nm for hub to wheel. Doesn’t sound like much.January 7, 2014 at 7:22 am #19124
Never torqued a wheel nut before, so I can’t speak on that subject. I have used both the Ridgid and Milwaukee 18v 1/4 drive cordless impacts for wheels on a regular basis and never had one come loose, although lately I’ve been just doing them by hand.
As a side note, I use a cordless impact for kart stand assembly every single day, and the Milwaukee 18V with the Lithium battery is the best one I’ve ever seen and its quite inexpensive.
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Don't bother PMing me, it doesn't work. Email is best: firstname.lastname@example.org.January 7, 2014 at 10:33 am #19139
If you want most torque, consistency, and reliability – hard to go wrong with Hilti 3/8 impact wrench. I have been using mine and it has enough torque to strip nuts. Hilti also warranties their batteries for 2 years.January 7, 2014 at 11:36 am #19141
I use a rigid 1/4 impact gun for removal and snugging the nuts, torque wrench to finish them at 20 ft/lbs or 240″ /lbs. 350″ lbs is too much for an 8mm 1.25 stud. Over tightening can crush an aluminum rim or lead to the nut jamming on the stud, causing it to remove the entire stud out upon removal or worse yet have it snap off when applying enough torque to break it free.
Stock Honda 13January 8, 2014 at 3:48 am #19173
I have my trusty Makita 9.6v 3/8 drive I have been using for years. The problem I run into is on the rear wheels where you have to use a long socket to reach the inside. I find that socket sucks up most of the torque, and seems to work fine on the fronts as well…
From what I can find on the web about that old impact, they say 600in/lbs, so 50ft/lbs, probably 1/2 that through the socket.
Now on a magnesium wheel, I wouldn’t run them up with an impact, I would most likely either torque wrench them on or at least a “T” handle, so you can feel the torque….January 8, 2014 at 7:39 am #19202
I hand start, impact snug, and then finish by hand tightening. If you start with the impact and cross thread you have to replace the stud. If you finish with the impact and don’t get it tight enough, or too tight and damage the stud and/or wheel you have to replace them. When you do this hold the wheel with your hand this allows you to insure the rim is flat against the hub and you can feel how much torque you are applying. Most important also is not to get distracted before you are finished with all four wheels! Don’t ask me how I know the last one …………OJanuary 8, 2014 at 7:48 am #19203January 10, 2014 at 9:57 am #19366
Thanks guys for the input!
I’m going to go with the 1/4 Milwaukee 18V. The M12 1/4 version just wasn’t powerful enough.
Getting the nuts started and final tightening will be done by hand, but the inbetween will be done at a slow speed. Looking forward to breaking the 24 lugnuts loose on the 4 karts between sessions to being a cakewalk now.January 11, 2014 at 6:40 am #19398
The 1/4″ has 450 in/lbs=37.5 ft/lbs, by the time you get a deep socket on there, your pretty close to what the torque spec is. It might be hard getting them off, especially with a battery that isn’t 100%. A better choice might be the 3/8″ drive @ 1000 in/lbs=83.3 ft/lbs….
CRJanuary 11, 2014 at 7:29 am #19400
This is what I use
Makita 18-Volt Lithium-Ion 1/4 in Impact driver
Mike G.January 11, 2014 at 1:13 pm #19411
Well, Thank you all for all your awesome imput
I decided to go with a MAC tools impact with a 1/2 inch drive, and an addaptor extenssion down to 3/8 to fit all my sockets, knowing that guns get weaker in time, I rather have a strongger gun
Not to mention I totally understand about the final torque by hand, but my concern is taking them off, it does get old when you do it a lot, so I just rather hit it with the gun and have them come right off.
Thank you all, FastFreddy.January 11, 2014 at 2:27 pm #19416January 11, 2014 at 4:11 pm #19418
Well, Thank you all for all your awesome imput I decided to go with a MAC tools impact with a 1/2 inch drive …
Holy smokes! I use a Dewalt 1/2″ cordless to take lug nuts off and on cars. Should probably do the job for karts.
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DeepSeat Kart Seats
Don't bother PMing me, it doesn't work. Email is best: email@example.com.January 12, 2014 at 10:18 pm #19472
Question: Do you all use a nylon locking nut or a nylon flange locking nut?January 12, 2014 at 10:24 pm #19473
Question 2: What tire pressure do you run as it relates to track temperature / conditions?January 13, 2014 at 6:58 am #19487
Question # 1: Nylock flange nuts
Question # 2: Look at the manufactures recommended pressures and adjust for daly conditions. Check tires when hot coming off the track, you want all four the same pressure.May 1, 2014 at 11:55 am #26654
Any one tried using a 30 lb/ft Torque stick with an impact driver. I am guessing that and a deep well socket might be about right.May 7, 2014 at 10:34 pm #27079
Nylock flange nuts. I like my 14v impact gun because I’ve found that the 18v guns tend to back out studs at the worst possible moments. Sometimes it lacks the grunt to loosen nuts after a run. Pulsing the trigger with the gun at random slight angles and pulling at the wheel will usually get the nuts off. If not, out come the ratchet. I’ve never thought about torque or gone back over them manually. My only loose wheel was because we forgot to tighten the nuts at all.May 8, 2014 at 10:52 am #27119
Nearly every dirt oval karter I’ve ever seen uses a battery impact only for tightening and loosening their tires, on 1/4″ and occasionally 5/16″ studs.
I use a Ryobi Li-Ion 18v cordless impact / hex drive with 3/8″ adapter, for both my oval and sprint karts and have never had an issue. I also use NON-SERRATED flange nuts on my aluminum rims to prevent gouging, etc.
Never had an issue with wheel loss except for the one tony mag wheel I forgot to hand tighten before I had the cordless, and ruined on initial use….doh!
2014 Praga Dragon / IAME KA-100
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