November 5, 2013 at 1:37 pm #14758
I’m looking for my first kart to race sprint at my local track in Redding, CA with a Briggs Animal engine. I’d like to be able to throw a 2 stroker (tag, rotax, 80?) on it as well to race at other tracks and to get some fast laps in.
Can you recommend a chassis for me because I’m totally overwhelmed with all the choices? I’d like to go new or next to new and my budget is whatever will get me a top level kart with the Briggs and hopefully, with the 2-strokers as well. I also don’t want to just go out and buy the most expensive chassis if it’s not right for me. Although, it’s what I typically do when buying stuff because I’m a sucker for the most expensive toys on the market!
Thanks for any help!
November 5, 2013 at 3:05 pm #14774
You should always go with something that your local shop supports so you can get parts and tuning advice easily.
November 5, 2013 at 5:10 pm #14781
Well, that’s sort of a problem for me since we don’t have a shop here in Redding that I’m aware of. The closest place to me would be in Sacramento or Davis or the SF Bay area. Maybe even going into Oregon would be an option since they don’t have state tax so that’s a plus! I’d be traveling 3+ hours to the nearest shop, which is fine with me. So far…I’m leaning on going with an Intrepid Raptor from a shop down south but I’d just like to hear if anyone has any other ideas.
November 6, 2013 at 5:15 am #14795
I think most 4 stroke chassis will support a 2 stroke fitment wise.
However a 2 stroke chassis can be a real bear to fit a 4 stroke on unless you get some spiffy jack shaft fixture thingy. You are doing the right thing researching all the stuff out there, karts are way more expensive than most people think.
November 6, 2013 at 6:14 pm #14892
The OTK karts(Tony Kart, FA, Kosmic, Exprit) are generally the fastest out of the box, their easy to tune if any at ll and there’s always support for them at the bigger races.
To get more information you might want to contact Phil Giebler Racing or Rolison Permirmance Group
November 6, 2013 at 8:46 pm #14925
November 9, 2013 at 3:54 am #15127
You would be looking at removing the Animal then partially removing the axle to get the sprocket hub outside the right rear bearing switching the sprocket and hub. Then if your 2 stroke is anything but Rotax putting on a radiator hooking up the hoses putting on the exhaust system hooking up the throttle cable and switching out the mychron connections changing fuel adding water getting everything purged of air.
Not a ton of work but I bet you’d do it a few times and decide you need another chassis. It also seems like the fast guys in 4 stroke are using American made chassis and the 2 stroke guys are European chassis.
November 10, 2013 at 7:52 am #15177
With the exception of the DD2 Rotax has the radiator mounted on the engine so the engine can be removed without draining the cooling system or messing with hoses. TAG is any engine with an on board electric starter (Touch And Go ) so Rotax is TAG. Probably an hour to switch engine set ups. I don’t know anything about Yamaha’s
April 1, 2014 at 9:41 pm #24872
Just a quick question from another newbie :) are there any fundamental differences racing a 2 stroke from racing a 4 stroke? I understand 4 strokers tend to be more reliable right? But in terms of racing them… Is one generally faster than the other? Are higher quality drivers opting for one over the other?? Trying to wrap my head around this sport .. Any help is great !! Thanks
April 2, 2014 at 5:15 am #24878
2-stroke classes are generally faster as you move up the karting ladder. There aren’t a ton of 4-stroke classes that are raced across the country and most of the highest competition classes/events are 2-stroke.
April 2, 2014 at 7:11 am #24908
2-cycle is faster. It is generally where the top drivers go – but there are some very good 4-cycle racers, and plenty of below-average guys in 2-cycle.
4-cycle may or may not be more reliable.
The new 2-cycle TAG engines (Rotax Max, Parilla Leopard, etc) and the Stock Honda or TAG-shifters are pretty reliable (good for 1-2 seasons between rebuilds), especially when racing at the club level.
Regular maintenance (non-rebuild) costs will be higher on the 2-cycle than the 4-cycle.
If going 4-cycle, the Briggs LO-206 is as inexpensive as you can get when it comes to total cost (buying + maintaining). There are more “open” 4-cycle classes in some areas where reliability and costs can go up significantly.
April 2, 2014 at 9:25 am #24917
If you haven’t spent time at kart shop talking to the owner or hung out around the tracks you’re thinking about visiting, suggest you do so. See which classes interest you and talk to the karters. Most will be willing to answer any questions if they’re not thrashng on a kart. Good luck.
November 7, 2013 at 8:54 pm #15035
Kevin the idea of switching from an air cooled 4 stroke to a water cooled 2 stroke may not be practical. You might be better off getting a good 4 stroke package get some seat time then think about a TAG kart. Take a look at this http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=6834&CATID=33
It looks like a good deal on a new Coyote chassis with a new Briggs Animal ready to go. It’s got Veloce graphics on it but so what that will just confuse everyone which is always fun. TS is a reputable outfit and it looks like they will make a deal on shipping!!!!
November 8, 2013 at 9:21 pm #15123
Thanks for the input guys! I really appreciate everything everyone has to say about this, and other subjects. Very cool!
Allen, Yes, they are actually very close to me and I’ve never heard of them because I’m just a new guy to the kart scene. However, It’s seems to me he may just be operating from his house because the address is in a residential location kind of out in the country. I’ll be giving them a fly-by. That’s awesome to know about extremegokarts.com though!
Brian, I was afraid someone might say it might not be practical to go from 2 to 4 stroke engines. Can you please explain why that is? Sorry, I’m clueless and trying to learn this stuff. New to karting but not to racing and going fast on four wheels and asphalt. I do like the sticker price on that TS but I’m also afraid I’m going to get bored of only having an animal to scoot around.
If that is the case and it’s not going to be practical to just…switch from a thumper to a screamer on the same day for some adrenaline…then it’s back to the drawing board for me because I know I’ll need more than the animal to keep the interest going for longer than a season.
Once again, thanks to everyone taking their time to chime in and help out a rookie!
November 9, 2013 at 9:18 pm #15165
Ok, cool Brian…good to know and thanks for letting me know about what it’d take to do the switch over. It kind of sounds like a pain in the butt. Timewise…how fast could you do a switch over?
So then let me ask you this….what if I did go with a Rotax? Because that’s where I have been leaning lately. Since I really don’t know jack about these things yet (but I’m learning thanks to people like you!), does the Rotax not use radiator? How about others like the KT100 or a Tag?
November 10, 2013 at 7:43 pm #15216
Brian hits it right in the nail, couldn’t said it better myself. You will get frustrated from wrenching from one set up to another ( especially at the track ). You don’t really wanna do this at all, I can understand when people blow up a motor during a race day, or get a top end stuck, it is very doable to replace engines at the track, or repair a top end, as long as you are replacing exactly the same engine package and new parts, but a whole complete and different engine type and drive asy. NO WAY!!!!!!! ( this is something you wanna do at home, before track day)
I am a certified technician (mechanic) by trade, and we have about 7 different karts we currently use, and I’m constantly working on them, and changing an axle to reposition bearing carriers to fit a 4 cycle engine, fitting the engine mount, and all components, etc is not something you wanna do in between practice sessions.
You really wanna spend more time driving, getting some seat time, and getting familiar with the way the chassis respond to any changes. ( no wrenching all day )
My best advise is: If you really have to have a new chassis with a Rotax ?, then just get it
But just know that old chassis win races too, You can show up at the track with an old chassis and kick everyone’s butt with the right driver
My other advise is: If you are like me ( always needing my fix NEED FOR SPEED ) You will always wanna switch from different types of power plats just for the thrill of it ( there is a reason why I have 7 karts, lol )
Then do your math correctly with your cash availability, and your budget, then you may just be able to buy 2 karts for a very good deal, use them for a season or so, get very familiar with the sport, and then graduate to a new chassis ( you really don’t wanna make costly mistakes with a brand new chassis, or go off road a lot with that beautiful set up )Not to mention you can total a brand new kart really quick by bending a spindle, or having contact. I doesn’t really take that much.
Most chassis out there are still pretty decent and also have the modern/new style body work, you can always install brand new body work or powder coat the chassis, and it will look brand new again.
My 2 cents
Hope it helps
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