Hope everyone is having a good Memorial Day weekend. I have a quick noob question on brakes. I haven’t been on here in a while and can’t find the search function anymore.
The issue I’m running into is that I have a long pedal before anything happens. I just bought the kart and it appears the cylinder to pedal rod was already tightened enough to actuate the cylinder some. What is the proper way to dial in the brakes for a quick action? Do I tighten the rod more? Do I need to buy different shims? Is there a self adjustment mechanism that isn’t functioning? Kart is rear brake only.
The brake rod adjustment will change where in the travel not how fast. Most use the top hole on the master cylinder arm but you might try the next hole down although I can’t believe this would be necessary. You might need new brake pads or shims for worn pads or it could be the wrong rotor assuming you have all the air bled out of the system.
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience
On a CRG 08 the brake is self adjusting. As Walt said make sure you have good brake pads with only slight clearance.
Next step is to bleed the brakes with fresh fluid. When you bleed the brakes, make sure the lever on the master cylinder is ALL the way back against the MC. I use a MightyVac attached to the bleed nipple with fuel line, and suck the fluid through the system, make sure the top is off the MC, and keep filling it as needed. When happy, put it all back together.
Now you want to adjust you brake pedal. Keep shortening/lengthening the brake rod until the pedal is in the right location for the driver, BUT the lever on the MC should ALWAYS be up against the MC when brake is at rest.
Is there anything online that shows the self adjustment? I still have tons of pad left with small shims. The pedal feel is fine. It’s just gapped too much. I just adjusted the rod in this past weekend run so I could get on track.
Self adjustment is build into the system. The trick is to make sure the master cylinder lever/piston returns all the way back when the brake is released. If you preload the lever/piston by shortening the brake rod, you will defeat self adjustment.