Home Forums Tech Talk Best way to strip a frames paint?

This topic contains 13 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Dave Holstein 3 years, 10 months ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #18820

    Dave Holstein
    Participant

    I got a frame for next season and upon cleaning it I noticed that it was painted with some real sensitive paint, I went to clean the brake area with some brake cleaner and it just attacked it instantly turning the clear into goo, anyway I have some urethane already in that color so I want to strip it off.

    So is a chemical stripper a good option?

    #18821

    tony zambos
    Participant

    Dave,

    Brake cleaner will do that to paint.  For stripping the chassis, use a chemical paint stripper designed to remove paint form aircraft.  Years ago, it was available at Auto Zone.  Don’t know about now.

    LAD Specialties / tony kart / rotax / kt100

    #18823

    John Savage
    Participant

    Grit blasting will do it

    Or if you have the time and want to save some $, then a blow torch and a wire bush

     

    Jetting and Kart Set-up Software

    http://www.rotaxjetting.com

    #18827

    Ted Hamilton
    Participant

    Be very careful with aircraft stripper. It works, but even doing it outside with good breeze, I inhaled some and burnt my lungs as well as experiencing rapid pulse and tunnel vision… USE A RESPIRATOR!! I’ve recovered for the most part, but don’t take chances — one mistake can end a life or permanently change it… I’ve since wire brushed ’em, used other strippers, sandblasted, and media blasted (walnuts/soda). Now it’s worth my time/money to let somebody else have the risk and hassle. Blast plus powedercoat is around $200 here. Good luck…

    www.facebook.com/hamiltonhelmets/
    2014 Praga Dragon / IAME KA-100

    #19334

    Chris Reinhardt
    Participant

    Grit blasting will do it Or if you have the time and want to save some $, then a blow torch and a wire bush

    I wouldn’t suggest putting any kind of heat into the chassis, you might change some of the properties of the metals….  ie, anneal it….

    CR

    Chris Reinhardt

    CR2 Motorsports

    http://www.cr2motorsports.webs.com/

    XV Racing Products

    http://www.xvengineering.com/

    ­­

    #19370

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Agreed, aircraft paint stripper would probably kill a regular guy. Should only be used by someone from Jersey. Although burning paint off would be my last resort, you won’t change anything about the metal with a hand held propane torch.

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

    #19375

    Chris Reinhardt
    Participant

    Agreed, aircraft paint stripper would probably kill a regular guy. Should only be used by someone from Jersey. Although burning paint off would be my last resort, you won’t change anything about the metal with a hand held propane torch. Gif

    I bet to differ…  A hand held propane torch can generate a flame of over 3000f,  it takes about 1/2 that to completely anneal 4130..  The whole chassis is a spring, the last thing you want to do is change the spring rate, and especially not unevenly…

    Look through your FAA books, I’m sure there’s an exact procedures for annealing 4130 when tig welded to prevent stress cracking….  And I’m sure the heat is hotter, but that’s to completely anneal the area, and I would be sure how change would happen with less heat, but I would want to find out….

    Chris Reinhardt

    CR2 Motorsports

    http://www.cr2motorsports.webs.com/

    XV Racing Products

    http://www.xvengineering.com/

    ­­

    #19379

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Powder coat comes off between 250 – 350 degrees. To draw the temper from fully hardened 4130 you go to 600 degrees, up to that temp your frame is ok. To make it fully annealed you need to heat it red hot until it’s non-magnetic which is about 900 degrees.

    It’s academic anyway, nobody can stand the smell of burning powder coat.

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

    #19385

    Dave Holstein
    Participant

    I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.

    #19386

    Chris Reinhardt
    Participant

    I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.

    The problem with a chem strip, it neutralizing it….

    Walt, I guess you’re talking *C?  Because 4130 is fully anneal at 900*C, or cherry red.  But who’s to say how a lessor temp would effect the spring rate…

    BTW Thia was a “professional” chem strip job on an Anderson chassis..

    Chris Reinhardt

    CR2 Motorsports

    http://www.cr2motorsports.webs.com/

    XV Racing Products

    http://www.xvengineering.com/

    ­­

    #19389

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Dang, I vote for Daves brake kleen method.

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

    #19394

    Brian Degulis
    Participant

    Boy you guys like to make things complicated. Just get it blasted it takes about 10 minutes and it’s not expensive. You don’t need walnut shells or dried Italian grape fruit seeds just fine sand. It’s quick it’s easy and your paint or powder coat will adhere much better to a surface with a profile.

     

    Brian

    #19395

    Chris Reinhardt
    Participant

    Boy you guys like to make things complicated. Just get it blasted it takes about 10 minutes and it’s not expensive. You don’t need walnut shells or dried Italian grape fruit seeds just fine sand. It’s quick it’s easy and your paint or powder coat will adhere much better to a surface with a profile.

    Brian

    You’re a little late to the party :), that was post #3…. and I think he has it stripped already with brake clean….

    Chris Reinhardt

    CR2 Motorsports

    http://www.cr2motorsports.webs.com/

    XV Racing Products

    http://www.xvengineering.com/

    ­­

    #19403

    Dave Holstein
    Participant

    Its almost completely stripped, I’m actually using stripper from the hardware store, areas around the breaks were baked on a little, then I’m going to wash it with soap and water, then off to powder coat I have decided. I wanted to get it to the point that it will take just a light blasting to clean it off completely without affecting the frame to much, it’s in real good shape.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Karting's News and Information Leader ekartingnews | an HMG publication