Need help resolving an issue. I just had my kt100 rebuilt and bought a used but still good condition dxl wet clutch to put on. After I Install the clutch assembly and tighten down the starter nut I have ALLOT for friction trying to spin the axle, I know its not to tight because it does it when I just snug it on. Now its not the clutch trying to engage its as if the key is rubbing on the inside of the basket. I don’t here a scraping noise but cant figure it out. I went to the horstman website and the manual says to check the gap between the sprocket and the spacer and I can just get a .014 feeler gauge in. min is .010 and max is .020. should I file it down more or is there any other suggestions. Also be for I install the clutch and just have the sprocket drum on with the chain is spins nicely. Thanks for any help.
First, I don’t claim to know a lot about the DXL clutch. Have you checked the clearance between the friction and floater disks? It appears that you have enough end play. Pull the spark plug and rock the rear wheels. If the piston moves, the clutch is engaging. Assuming that the clutch and rear gears are in line. And you could try installing the clutch without the key. Other than that, hopefully someone knowledgeable will chime in or you could call Hosrtman.
Word of advice, used the Horstman clutch tools to remove and install the clutch.
LAD Specialties customer / tony kart / rotax / kt100
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You’re going to have friction trying to spin the axle, it’s a wet clutch and it has oil drag. If the weather is cold it will be worse. I set mine up with .020″ end play, .055″ air gap and .285″ spring height.
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience
The friction is before I even put the out side cover on and fill with oil. I did notice if I just barely finger tight the starter nut it spins good. But no where near the 350 inch pounds. Not sure on the other measurements, I need to go buy a caliper today after work.
Make sure the spacer is on correctly. It’s tapered to fit the little curve on the shoulder of the crank. If thats right than you either need a thinner spacer or the hubs cracked. I’ve seen one cracked in the keyway area before. Probably due to over tightening.
I talked to one of the guys at horstman and he said it sounds like I’m doing everything right and have good endplay which he said really the most important part. He said put it all the way together fill it with oil and start it up. Then see how it feels with the motor off.
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