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Sean Swisz

I feel embarrassed replying back with this but here it goes. It turns out once I settle down and actually LOOK at the problem that is in front of me I might have figured this out earlier. Thinking back there were more issues that contributed to this which is the reason the starter wouldn’t turn. Anyways, I had the starter pulled off of the engine from when I was testing for voltage, continuity and grounds. I don’t know why it never occurred to me that I never hooked up a ground lead when trying to zap the start button…

Last night: I cut out sections of the friction tape on the underside of the frame so the mount would have a ground, tested 2 push boxes, 2 coils, took voltage reading and continuity tests from both. Sitting there I’m thinking that I have 2 bad power boxes, coils or stators I was ready to sell every piece of karting kit I own. Then I look at the starter and say “the starter sits on the case which is grounded… and you have no ground lead attached, idiot!”. Hooked up a ground lead and the starter spun right up!

There was a lot more that could have been wrong with this including the brush that fell off, the orange wire in the 4-pin connector that was deformed, push box ground that became uncrimped, and the friction tape under the engine mount.

Jim: #1 check the starter brushes. Mine would not even think about starting with that broken brush. #2 check the ground wire that runs from the push-box to the engine and also the male/female connections on the 3 and 4-pin connections. After scouring the internet for similar problems another person had an issue when taking left turns and braking. Pulled into the pits and one of the wires backed out of the connector.

Hope this helps out anyone else with an issue like this. Jim, please let us know what happens

Tony Kart / Leopard

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